I don’t drink coffee. Never have, never will. I’ve spent the
best part of my working life though learning how to make it and serve it in all
of the varied and celebrated fashions, but you will never catch me drinking the
fowl and disgusting stuff. Which makes reviewing coffee shops in the city a bit
of a challenge. So if you want to find
out about the aromas and subtle flavours of the hot beverages on offer, you
better walk on home.
Boson Tea Party isn’t just another one of your ‘run of the
mill’ coffee shops that are full of sofas and stupidly large arm chairs, pretending
to be friendly and cosy, when all the while it’s just a carefully designed,
corporate illusion to make you think you’re not just sat in an homogonous,
carbon copy, worldwide chain. This place does have real character. A Starbucks
or a Costa, for example, would never have such a ridiculously cramped and
poorly designed entrance where you queue to place your orders. All you need are
half a dozen people waiting for their caffeine fix and it feels like your
trying to get to the front of the stage at Glastonbury. This might be because a
lot of the cliental look like they’ve just come from the festival at Glastonbury.
Situated only a short walk from Exeter College on Queen Street, Boston’s has
become one of the major hang outs for those who can’t yet get into more ‘intoxicating’
establishments.
This would normally put me off. If I wanted to hang around
with a bunch of youthful and adolescent teenagers then I would be being investigated
by Operation Yewtree. However, the atmosphere when your upstairs in the
cavernous Georgian dining hall and the quality of the food will make you put up
with the irritating behaviour of some of the patrons.
By now a long standing and well know mainstay of the city
Boston Tea Party offers you a great alternative to one of the many chain coffee
shops that have multiplied across the town. No matter what time you seem to
walk in there is always a melee of activity behind the counter. This is because
they make all their meals, sandwiches and cakes fresh, by hand, on the
premises. You have to have a very strong
will not to be sucked into buying a piece of cake or brownie that is just
sitting there, tempting you, in the counter as you order. Regrettably I do not
possess the afore mentioned iron will so have sampled, over the years, rather a
lot of their sweet delectations, so I can tell you with some authority that
they are delicious.
As for main meals; they serve breakfast all day, which makes
them that much more popular for those seeking a good brunch, (plus, this is the
only place I’ve ever been to that has Eggy Bread on the menu; genius). You can
also grab a burger, various sandwiches, soups and salads all made with free
range, locally sourced meat and eggs, as well as bread from the award winning
Hobbs House Bakery. They also do a blistering array of teas, unsurprising given
the name of the place, including various black, herbal, green and flavoured
varieties.
The unique selling point of the place, as I touched on earlier,
is the room upstairs. After escaping the crush of people in the poky downstairs
serving area you escape into an echoy, wooden floored hall with a high ceiling
and huge windows that let in volumes of natural light. It must cover many of
the surrounding shops below. It looks like a room where Victorian children
should have been taught ballet. The floor is covered in wooden tables all of
different shapes and heights and surrounded by miss-matched chairs that are far
more comfortable than they look. But the best thing about this place is the
ambience. Even with such a high ceiling it never feels empty or austere. The
noise of chatter and laughter reverberate around the room creating a welcoming
and comforting mood. It’s always a bit chaotic; with people running around the
huge tables in the centre, tripping over stray bags and chair legs, clearing
room for the next people to stumble up the stairs into this bustling and
convivial environment.
This is why myself, and many others, keep choosing to go
back there. There is quite honestly nowhere else like it in Exeter. Sure you
might have to put up with sharing a table with some adolescent college kids,
but the joy of sitting somewhere unique and special; that isn’t just a copy, of
a copy, of a copy, of a coffee house an executive designed because it tested
well in a focus group, outweighs this by far. Boston Tea Party is always busy,
and the reason it’s always busy is because people want to go there. They could
go next door to a big chain, but many don’t. That’s a pretty good sign I think.
Opening Times:
Mon – Sat: 7am – 6pm
Sun: 8am – 6pm
Address:
84 Queen Street
Exeter
EX4 3RP
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