Al Farid - A True Moroccan Experience at the heart of the City

I went on holiday once just because I ate here. I was sat with my best friend Graham in the upstairs restaurant of Al Farid about 4 years ago and we were discussing where we should go on holiday to catch a bit of winter sun.  As we were tucking into an array of mezze dishes (we had ordered far too many as usual) our conversation turned from flights and sand-castles to how good the food was and how much we both liked North African cuisine with its blend of traditional African techniques and Middle Eastern flavours and spices. Then it hit us. Why don’t we go on holiday somewhere where we can eat this every day?  A month later we were on a plane out to Tunisia and it was all down to the inspiration and atmosphere at Al Farid.

Tucked away in the South Street corner of Cathedral Green, Al Farid is a Moroccan Bar and Restaurant (I know, I know, we should have gone to Morocco on holiday, but Tunisia was cheaper and I’m a man on a budget I’m afraid to say) that gives you a truly authentic flavour of that part of the world.  The ground floor, as you walk in, has been turned into a splendid, cosy little bar area. Thick carpets and rugs are underfoot and drapes and linens hang from the walls and ceiling to transport you hundreds of miles away to the warm, balmy airs and mysterious allures of the back streets of Marrakesh. Low seats piled high with brightly designed cushions surround the walls where you can sit with a hot tea, or strong coffee, or perhaps a glass or arak; the traditional aniseed based spirit that will definitely put hairs on your chest! The lights are dim and the soundtrack of hushed conversation and laughter from the clientele wafts over Arabic and Berber music creating an air of mystery and enchantment.  It’s a great setting to while away an evening with some friends and a few drinks, while picking at plates of mezze and tapas when you want. Plus you can lounge around while you’re waiting to meet people before going up stairs for a more ‘traditional’ sit down meal.

The upstairs space keeps the ambiance that you have just left, however you will have to negotiate one of the steepest, narrowest, and most treacherous staircases you will ever come across. Going up isn’t much of a problem, but going down after a few glasses of wine and a full stomach can test your coordination and head for heights.  There is a truly delicious menu though waiting for you at the summit. The centre of it, as I’ve mentioned, is the mezze selection; a smorgasbord (I love the fact I got to use that word) of small dishes that you can pick any number of to share. This gives you the option of trying a whole host of different dishes and flavours in combination that can lead to some very tasty results. Try dipping the Moroccan ‘Keftas’ meatballs into their homemade hummus.   I warn you now though; your eyes and your mouth will want to try far too much and in my experience you will end up with lots of little bits of leftovers. But that is the reason why the good Lord invented the doggy bag.

Don’t let these scrummy morsels completely steal your attention. There are also some delicious individual main courses such as the chicken or Lamb Tagines served with couscous or for the vegetarians; Persian “Ghemieh”- a Split pea, tomato and dried lime stew with grilled aubergine served with saffron rice.  Save enough room for the handmade Baklava for desert or the Mhallableyh; a rice pudding with rose water.

So how do you top all of that? Well, for those who have travelled across the Middle East and North Africa, you will know the best way is to sit around with your friends, chatting, and digesting your meal into the small hours, while sharing a hooka pipe. In an age, and a part of the world, that seems to be allowing us to do less and less, and with so many flashy gadgets and gizmos that let you do so much while at the same time reducing what you actually experience, taking the time to share in an ancient tradition that people have being practising for thousands of years is a rare treat and something I think should be cherished.  Sat out in their secret courtyard the aromas of sweet flavoured tobaccos create an exotic, intense environment where time and your surroundings can easily be forgotten.

Al Farid is the epitome of a hidden gem. Hidden away, with no obvious, outward signs of what lies behind the white washed walls with blue adornments, this restaurant is known to but a few, but to those people it is a true delight. This isn’t a place that is trying to be akin to something it’s not, much like a lot of themed pubs and restaurants. This isn’t a cheap charade, a thinly disguised veil, or a second rate facsimile or what a Moroccan restaurant is. This is the authentic, real deal. If you fancy a trip to North Africa this summer, come here for the perfect inspiration.  


Opening Times: Saturday 12pm till late
                           Sunday -Friday 5pm till late

Address : 3 Cathedral Yard ,Exeter, EX1 1HJ

Tel: 01392 494444

http://alfaridrestaurant.co.uk/