This might not be everyone’s first thought I grant you, but
in my view this little pub encapsulates everything I love, not only about
Exeter, but with life in general. Located on the corner of Melbourne Street, a
small residential thoroughfare just off Topsham Road and above the Quay, it
boasts a very unimposing facade as you walk up, with only its quirky rounded
shape giving any indication of the distinctive surroundings that await inside.
If you were to describe The Hourglass in one word then cosy would be it. Some
of you might take this to mean small, and yes the place isn’t cavernous, you
would struggle to swing an amply sized moggy around the bar (I still don’t
recommend doing this though, even if there is enough room to avoid claw marks
on the wallpaper), but this all just adds to the character. The old style charm
that the place exudes isn’t musty and dated. Instead of being kitsch and ‘old-e
world-e’ the décor and tone of the pub strikes that perfect balance between
traditional and unique. You feel just at home here if you’re after a pint of
real ale and a good book by the fire, or a bottle of vino with some friends
after a day at the office. The very epitome of what a modern pub should be;
relaxed and hospitable while also being smart and refined.
The warm and hospitable bar however is not the main draw to
this place. The modest restaurant out the back has become recognized in the
city as one of the best places to eat out. With a small menu that changes
daily, sourced with ingredients that are predominantly local but most
importantly of remarkable quality, the dishes that are served here are lovingly
made and of exceptional quality. With a tendency to go for rustic and
traditional English cuisine with a slight Mediterranean twist, the chef focuses
on excellence over volume, but that’s not to say you’ll be left feeling hungry
though. When I took my Valentine there earlier this month on a surprise date we
both had pork belly cooked in cider, with chorizo, on a bed of lentils that was
mouth wateringly good. I also have to give special mention to the desserts
which my girlfriend was gushing over and wooing more than she was me!
Top 5 charming qualities about the Hourglass:
- Getting close and intermit. This might sound very romantic, and it can be, but expect to make some new close and intermit friends in the bar as everyone tries to squeeze in
- The food here is exceptional. I can’t over state this enough. Book a table in advance though as you will be unlikely to get one walking in off the street.
- The staff here are extremely friendly and only add to the genial atmosphere of the place. This shouldn’t be a noteworthy point in this day and age, and the standard of service has generally gone up in most places, but unfortunately genuinely gracious staff are still a rare commodity.
- Mistakenly trying to open the door to the cleaning cupboard every time I walk into the Gents bathroom. Every time!
- The incorporation of
everything that a British pub and restaurant should be under one roof.
Excellent quality, great atmosphere, a unique, quirky, flair, and a top
reputation
This is the first time I have written an article about
somewhere on here and slightly regretted it, because now even more people are
going to go there and make me spill my pint, book up all the tables and make it
even harder for me to fight to the bar. So ignore all of this and forget I even
mentioned The Hourglass. However, if you do go, it’s the perfect place to take
anyone and give them a good, exceptional night out. Just be careful that they
don’t try and ditch you and run off with one of the desserts!
Opening Times
Weekdays
12 - 3, 5 - 11
Sundays
12 - 10.30
Closed
Mon lunchtime
Address:
Melbourne Street, Exeter EX2 4AU, England
Tel: 01392 258722
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